When I read the tasting notes from Volition Tea for their Black Jade Wulong, I expected some floral notes to be masked by a roasted sweetness. But this tea was much more floral than I imagined it would be. In fact, it was more floral than I’ve ever tasted in a tea that wasn’t scented by or mixed with actual flowers. It was a beautiful bouquet of jasmine and gardenia flowers wrapped up in a balanced, slightly astringent brew that was pretty much spring in a cup.
What is a Wulong?
Wulong teas are partially oxidized teas, often roasted, and very complex. They are produced mostly in China and Taiwan. They can be dark and sweet, light and playful, and everything in between. This particular tea is very floral, and that can be thanks to many aspects of the tea’s life and production. For example, elevation and cultivar play a large role in the development of volatile oils in the leaves. When the tea is picked also impacts flavor. And, maybe most influential, is the way the tea is processed, steamed, dried, oxidized, roasted, and rolled. A tea farmer or producer will know exactly the steps needed to create the flavor profile they want to achieve.
What is Dan Cong Wulong?
Dan Cong wulong tea is a varietal grown in the Phoenix Mountain region of Guangdong Province, China. There are a few different understandings of what makes a dan cong. Some say all the leaves in a batch must come from one tree. Some say the leaves must come from a tree with only one trunk. And others say leaves can be mixed from the same garden as long this happens after processing. In any case, dan cong has a long history of flavorful tea coming from old-growth trees around the Phoenix Mountain.
Tea is a wonderful part of my life. I get up in the morning excited to brew my first cup. I scramble through my half-asleep brain to decide what I’ll drink today. The day hasn’t truly started until I pick the proper water temperature on my water kettle. Just writing about it, I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s cup!
But beneath that pleasure is a profound respect for the tea and where it came from. There is a deep sorrow and anger at the conditions tea workers have to endure on many farms around the world. There is also a shameful knowledge of how capitalism and white supremacy have shaped the industry, both abroad and here in the United States.
This is the second of two articles discussing the colonization of tea. The first article focuses on the history of colonization, and this article will address how colonization continues to impact the tea industry. I spoke with two amazing tea company owners, Jamila Wright of Brooklyn Tea and Ranmu (Maggie) Xue of Us Two Tea. They gave their insights and shared their experiences as women of Color in the tea industry.
Throughout its colonial history, and still today, working conditions on many tea farms were and are inhumane.
According to the Solidarity Center, “an estimated 13 million people in 48 countries work on tea plantations around the world, mostly women who are paid low wages and have few or no health and safety protections. Tea plantation workers are often forced to rely on their employers for food, housing and education, adding to their vulnerability.”
The Business and Human Rights Resource Centre spoke to Rebecca Nyakondo, a Kenyan tea worker, whose back was so damaged from picking tea, the pain stopped her picking up her youngest child. For 17 years, she said, she was paid as little as $1.90 per day to pick for 12 hours with a basket carrying up to 44 lb strapped to her back.
It is also leading to environmental issues, from the use of pesticides to deforestation. How are these things tied to colonialism? We can only imagine what tea production would look like today if the British had not capitalized on tea’s popularity using espionage, sabotage, theft, addiction, inhumane labor practices, and so on.
A tea farm at dusk
Know Who Grows Your Tea
Much of this dehumanization and carelessness for the earth can be traced back to the wealth generated by tea being kept from those who produce it. Tea workers in Assam, India made about $1.50 a day in 2015, and in 2018, tea workers in Kenya made about $3.50 a day. That’s around $850 a year, compared to the estimated cost of living in Kenya, which is around $5,913 a year for a single person – and this estimate doesn’t include rent. In contrast, Lipton had a brand value of over $10 billion in 2022.
“A lot of people don’t know that most of the tea comes from places with Black and Brown folks, right? So, you have that to teach people and then to say, ‘okay, now, look at the most wealth generating tea companies out there.’ And they’re typically not Brown and Black folks, right? They’re typically white males, right? … So, it’s just this longstanding history of the folks who are doing the day in, day out labor not having any access to the generational wealth that’s accumulated around tea.”
Jamila Wright, Co-owner of Brooklyn Tea
A tea tasting in Malawi
White Supremacy in Tea
The issues faced by farmworkers and the ecosystems around farms is a result of operating within a white supremacist capitalist system. White supremacy keeps white people at the top of these systems – think Bigelow CEO Cindi Bigelow, Twinings USA CEO Gavin Vandeligt, CVC Capital Partners (owners of Lipton brands) CEO Rob Lucas, and many smaller tea brands. Capitalism keeps consumers in the dark about company affairs, values and practices, making it hard for tea drinkers to decide what companies to support.
“I was searching, and I found out at that time – it was 2019 – there are not a lot of Asian owned brands… So, I started thinking, why there’s no Asian-owned tea brand.”
Ranmu (Maggie) Xue, Founder of Us Two Tea
Housing for tea workers
A Concentration of Wealth
This erasure of where tea comes from leads to consumers not being able to make informed choices. Moreover, it provides us with an inaccurate idea of what tea is and who produces it.
“A lot of times, all this tea is being white labeled – no pun intended – and repackage, and there is no talk of the history, where it comes from, right? And so you can get someone who bags a tea that was made in Kenya or China, but they repackage it. They sell it in your local Target, Walmart, and there’s no connection to the history.”
Jamila Wright, Co-owner of Brooklyn Tea
This repackaging and rebranding of tea away from its origins and towards a whitewashed product can also create challenges for folks who identify as a member of a tea-growing culture.
“I can tell the difference between Chinese-American kids and Korean-American kids. There’s a lack of cultural confidence because people think the product related to China is shitty quality, and there’s a bad image when Trump was president. So, you can really tell they’re not proud to be Asian or Chinese during that time. So it really hurts me.”
Ranmu (Maggie) Xue, Founder of Us Two Tea
An Example of Tea Responsibility
In 2020, Yorkshire Tea told critics of the Black Lives Matter movement on Twitter to not buy their tea. The move was met with a deluge of comments, mainly from white people, challenging the brand’s stance on racism. Obviously, many of these tea drinkers have forgotten where their tea is sourced from. Indeed, much of the black tea we sip in the U.S. and the U.K. comes from former colonial tea plantations in India and several African countries, including Rwanda and Kenya. This includes the tea used in Yorkshire Tea products, and the alternatives people threatened to switch to after Yorkshire’s Twitter comment.
Please don't buy our tea again.
We're taking some time to educate ourselves and plan proper action before we post. We stand against racism. #BlackLivesMatter
There was also a reply in the Twitter thread suggesting Yorkshire Tea should change its name to Kenya Tea. This is an important point to make. The U.K. and the U.S. grow almost no tea on their own land. It cannot be forgotten that Black and Brown people have been the workforce behind the classic black teabag for centuries. It also cannot be forgotten that tea has its origins in China. Removing Chinese, Japanese and Korean culture from tea is a form of violence towards Asian people. This is not a point of politics, it is a demand for ethics, anti-racism, human rights, dignity, compassion and understanding.
Well done for shaming the racist, but now that you have used the #BlackLivesMatter hashtag may I suggest a rebrand to give credit where credit’s due. #KenyaTea perhaps?? As #Yorkshire is to tea what Elvis is to rock and roll.
Many white westerners – myself included – have taken immense pleasure in the celebration of tea. We’ve studied, sipped, tested, and tasted all types of tea. Some have led with cultural appreciation, some with cultural appropriation. For those of us whose culture is not one steeped in tea – it’s cultivation, it’s production, it’s importance – and for those of us whose ancestors were not slaves on farms reaping crops that made many others rich, we have to remember that tea is a sacred gift that we enjoy only because of centuries of colonization, warfare, torture, indentured servitude, and slavery.
Vietnamese peace worker, author and Buddhist monk Thich Nhat Hanh explains how, with a mindful existence, you can see in a piece of paper the tree, and the sunshine the tree drank in, and the drops of rain that watered it. I try to do the same when drinking tea; to see the person who picked the tea, or rolled the tea, or pan-fried the tea, and the sunshine that bathed it, and the soil that nurtured it – all in one cup.
This same mindfulness can show us the history of tea. It is a history of great beauty and cultural significance. It is also a history of colonization, trickery, slavery, and white supremacy. Therefore, it is important to be aware of the history of colonization as it pertains to tea so that we can address its continuing impacts and create an equitable landscape for producers, distributors, creators and drinkers.
This is the first of two articles discussing the colonization of tea. This article will focus on the history of colonization, and the next will address how colonization continues to impact the tea industry.
I believe that, as a white person, it’s important to talk about these histories, discuss the challenges they continue to create, and work to dismantle systems of oppression. I’ve done extensive research for this article, but most of these resources are based in white-supremacy, and I recognize that some of the facts, figures and stories here will be through that lens.
Furthermore, I will be making mistakes. In fact, you may even see mistakes in this article. My goal is to listen when mistakes are pointed out, apologies with humility and sincerity, and work to not make that mistake again.
Bodhidharma
Cultural Significance of Tea
To better understand the overwhelming impact of colonization, specifically with tea, I want to give a little cultural and historical background.
It’s said that in 2737 BCE, Emperor Shen Nong told his people to boil their water for safety. While he was boiling his own water, the wind blew some leaves into his pot. He was delighted by the elixir! Those were tea leaves!
Another version of that myth states, according to Tea Drunk, “during a long day spent roaming the forest searching for edible grains and herbs, the weary divine farmer Shen Nong accidentally poisoned himself 72 times. But before the poisons could end his life, a leaf drifted into his mouth. He chewed on it, and it revived him, and that is how we discovered tea.”
Yet another legend says that the monk Bodhidharma, an Indian Buddhist missionary in China, was frustrated that he fell asleep during meditation, so he cut off his eyelids, and where they fell on the ground, a tea plant sprung up.
The East India Company
Around the 1600s, tea was gaining popularity in Europe. The East India Company was a trading Goliath, moving goods to and from England at the time. One of these goods was tea. By the 1700s, the demand for tea in England was massive, and the East India Company had a monopoly on its trade.
During this time, the Chinese government had strict policies around tea trading with European countries. Traders were not allowed further than a day’s walk into the country from the ports. This insured the cultivation and production of tea was kept a closely guarded secret.
The word “monopoly” was also used to describe Chinese control of tea at the time. I believe there is a difference between controlling a market to maintain profit, and protecting a cultural staple to preserve the livelihood of a country’s population. We have to remember, tea was a luxury in England, and a pillar of society in China. So I don’t think the word “monopoly” applies to China’s strict regulations around tea trading the same way it applies to the East India Company’s iron-clad grip on tea trading in England.
In addition to regulations, China would only trade tea for silver. This was unfavorable for the British. In order to gain more access to tea, the East India Company, which at the time was partially under the control of the British Parliament, smuggled opium, mostly from India, into the country. This was illegal under Chinese rule, and had devastating effects. Widespread addiction to the drug crippled the Chinese society and economy.
British warships attacking a Chinese battery on the Pearl (Zhu) River during the First Opium War, 1841
The Theft of Tea
Despite winning the first Opium War, through which the British gained access to 4 additional trading ports in China and very unfavorable trade agreements for China, the British still did not want to be subjected to China’s dominance in tea. In order to gain the control they wanted, the East India Company sent a Scottish botanist named Robert Fortune to the heart of China’s tea industry. Dressed in “mandarin garb,” Fortune stole tea plants, seeds, and production secrets, and brought them to company-controlled farms in India. This usurped the dominance of the Chinese tea trade, and changed the industry forever.
India, under colonial British rule from 1858 to 1947, remained the top tea-producing country until the 21st century, when China took the lead again.
An illustration from a book published in 1851 depicts the cultivation of tea in China
Tea Slavery
Tea and slavery are inextricably linked in many ways. The tea trade moved in the same circles as the slave trade, along with the sugar trade. Because of the British obsession with tea, and their unaccustomed palates to its bitterness, sugar was a very important import. Sugar was grown, harvested and produced using enslaved people.
Modern slavery still exists today on tea plantations around the world. But that will be covered in the next article, because it is a topic too important to cover in one article.
Remembering the Past and Challenging the Present
Many white westerners – myself included – have taken immense pleasure in the celebration of tea. We’ve studied, sipped, tested, and tasted all types of tea. Some have led with cultural appreciation, some with cultural appropriation. For those of us whose culture is not one steeped in tea – it’s cultivation, it’s production, it’s importance – and for those of us whose ancestors were not slaves on farms reaping crops that made many others rich, we have to remember that tea is a sacred gift that we enjoy only because of centuries of colonization, warfare, torture, and indentured servitude.
As you can tell, tea is very near and dear to my heart. I drink it every day, I read about it, I learn about it, and I savor it. But there is no tea without clean, accessible, affordable water. World Water Day is an initiative to raise awareness about the millions of people who live without access to safe and affordable water. Where I live in Michigan, tens of thousands of households experience water shutoffs, or struggle to find drinkable water. This is unconscionable. I spoke with Valerie Jean, member of the People’s Water Board Coalition in Detroit, Michigan, about the fight for the right to clean, accessible and affordable water.
A group of protesters stands outside with signs calling for water rights on World Water Day. Credit: Valerie Jean
What is World Water Day
World Water Day has been an observance of the United Nations since 1993, “to recognize water struggles around the world,” says Valerie Jean. “This year, the theme [is] Water for Peace, which makes absolute sense.”
Water access is an emergency for millions of people across the globe. Currently, the Palestinian people are facing a devastating water crisis at the hands of the Israeli government. By flooding the water tunnels under Gaza with seawater, the Israeli Defense Forces has potentially caused devastating and long-lasting damage to the aquifer that Palestinians rely on. And this is not a new issue. “In the middle of a war, the very first thing that they do is get rid of the water system.”
A group of protesters stands on the steps of the Michigan Capital Building with signs saying, “Protect Our Water.” Credit: Valerie Jean
Local World Water Day
Access to clean, affordable water is an issue here in the United States, as well. Flint, Michigan, has been at the forefront of the clean water conversation for nearly a decade. For Valerie Jean and her Detroit community, the fight has been going even longer. “We’ve been fighting since 2006 – myself since 2014 – for affordable water for everyone, and right now we’re taking a lot of steps to make sure that that happens.”
Issues concerning the cost of water, and the consequences of not paying a water bill, have been top-of-mind for Valerie Jean and the People’s Water Board Coalition. “It’s been this way my entire life in Detroit, there’s always been one cat in the neighborhood who had… a water key to stick down in and turn the water back on… But if they get caught turning their water back on, you get a $600 ticket, plus it’s a federal felony offense.”
For Michiganders, for Palestinians, and for many surviving in a water crisis, racism is at the heart of the issue. “There’s these narratives and systematic racism… that has been indoctrinated into folks. Like, ‘we’re not paying for f***ing Detroit or people who just don’t want to pay their water bill. But that’s not the situation throughout Michigan. We’ve done all of the research and water is simply not affordable for everyone in Michigan.”
A group of protesters stands in a line with signs spelling out, “Stop the Detroit Shutoffs.” Credit: Valerie Jean
Water is a right
So, is water really a human right? Should water be seen the same as the air we breathe, or should it be compared to our internet, a commodity? “Water is probably the most politicalized conversation on the planet,” Valerie Jean adds.
“It really is the lifeblood of all the species on the planet. It doesn’t just belong to humans.”
A speaker holds a sign that reads, “Bring the salmon home” in front of a podium with a sign that reads, “Water = Life.” Credit: Valerie Jean
What we can do
Valerie Jean and the People’s Water Board Coalition have been working on ending harmful bills regarding water in Michigan, and replacing them with bills that will help the community. “The Michigan Water Affordability bill package will eliminate that all together and decriminalize turning your water back on,” she explains. “But also it eliminates people having to turn their water back on, because nobody will get shut off.”
Showing support for bills like this, and attending World Water Day events near you, can help show support for people facing water emergencies. Valerie Jean and I will be at Michigan’s World Water Day on March 19th. On a broader scale, telling your representatives that water is a right, and that no person should be denied access to clean, affordable water, will help them know where you stand. But we have to stand for something.
A line of protesters hold signs that spell out, “Water Is Life.” Credit: Valerie Jean
Conclusion
I use tea as a meditation practice as much as I do for pure enjoyment. I try to see the farmers plucking the leaves, the producers pan frying the leaves, and the journey the leaves make to get to the cup in front of me. And yet, I rarely use that same meditation practice for the water that breathes life into the leaves. Now, I will also try to see the drops of water falling into reservoirs, the systems that carry water to our homes, and the people who do not experience the right to water. Those people deserve our voices, the voices of those who have water enough to enjoy tea every day.
The dry, loose leaves of Qi Men Hong Cha from Tea Drunk in a gaiwan.
The complexity of this Qi Men Hong Cha
What a delicious tea! It is so interesting to smell the leaves and the tea, and compare that with the taste of the tea. Our olfactory system is pretty amazing, especially when it is pared with our ability to taste. This Qi Men Hong Cha smells rich and syrupy, like a dense, tart passion fruit cake. As the tea brews, it transforms from notes of cocoa to blooming flowers. Yet, sipping the tea, the flavor is light and citrusy. Delicious, and beautiful to look at, too!
The brewed liquid from Qi Men Hong Cha from Tea Drunk in a glass fairness pitcher.
What is Qi Men Hong Cha?
So, what is this tea? Qi Men Hong Cha, or Keemun, is a red (black) tea. It originated in Qimen County of Huangshan, which is where the name “Keemun” came from. Furthermore, it is one of the most commonly produced teas in the world. A good-quality Keemun will be incredibly complex in flavor, ranging from floral and sweet to rich and chocolaty.
The wet leaves from Qi Men Hong Cha from Tea Drunk in a glass gaiwan.
About Tea Drunk
Tea Drunk is one of my absolute favorite tea shops. They have such a wealth of knowledge and choose delectable teas to sell. In fact, one of my all-time favorite teas is Semi-Handmade Huo Qing from Tea Drunk. They are a great example of a company that champions tea knowledge, tea quality, and tea farmers.
